2004 jeep grand cherokee passenger windows and locks not working

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee have had problems with door locks and windows not working for the last 9 months. Drivers window and locks work from the switch so does the drivers rear passenger window (but not the lock) both front and rear passenger and tail gate not working, except for speakers work fine, keyless entry not responding on any door. I first replaced the drivers door switch and fixed a broken ground wire. After that everything worked for about 2 months, then right back to the before mentioned set up. So I rewired all four doors and replaced the relays under the hood and fuses under the dash. Still no luck, so replaced the drivers door switch again. Still nothing. Not sure where to go from here. Any help would be appreciated.

The passengers door module contains the receiver for the key-less entry. i would start disconnecting the module and reconnect after some minutes. Those modules can freeze up and only reset after they are completely powered down.
Or just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and check again.

The passengers door module contains the receiver for the key-less entry. i would start disconnecting the module and reconnect after some minutes. Those modules can freeze up and only reset after they are completely powered down.
Or just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and check again.

Tried that and no joy, but on a whim I installed the 2nd drivers controller I had on the passenger side and bam doors and windows work 🤣. Now just to find a passenger side controller and back in business. Thanks for the help.

I am having sort of the same problems with my 04 WJ. When I went to get in the Jeep to go to work the only things that worked were the driver's front window and lock, the drivers rear window and the driver's mirror. I have disconected the rubber boot from the door and checked the wires and none of them seem to be broken. I have also replaced the #12 fuse under the hood. Has anyone had the wires broken within the door or inside the dash part? Or any other suggestions as to what could be causing the issues?

Worked for me.

Did the drivers doors (2 broken wires). Still didn't work.

As I'm scratching my head, I thought, why not check the passenger side. 1 broken wire there.

FIXED!

It's a good idea to check ALL the door harnesses when you have this issue start up. I had to repair 4 wires (one was a speaker wire) on the drivers door, 2 in the front passenger, and 1 each in the rear on mine. It can be a PITA but having windows, doorlocks, and speakers that work is kind of nice.

Good info from everyone. Thanks, Guys. I have had similar problems of this nature with other cars--fixed them the same way. So, I can appreciate all the work you have done. Thanks for taking the time and posting your results. It is feedback like this that makes the Forum successful. Thanks, again.

Hello,
I have this problem in my 5.9, I did everything you all have written here. Al doors wires are ok, changed different fuses, nothing happens. Finally I will need to buy a door master switch, but the problem I am in Lithuania, maybe you know some internet address that can contact to send it to me?
Thank you.
Sergio

not to pull up and old thread, but once again same problems here, windows work on and off along with the locks and mirror, no broken wires, unplugged the battery nothing, thoughts?

not to pull up and old thread, but once again same problems here, windows work on and off along with the locks and mirror, no broken wires, unplugged the battery nothing, thoughts?

Did you test the wires or just look at them? You really have to inspect them closely and testing with a DMM is best. If you have totally eliminated faulty wiring between the door and the body check the wiring where it enters the drivers side. There is sometimes an issue there. Chasing down an electrical issue can be a pain. The symptoms point to either broken wires or bad power or ground to the affected systems. You'd have to get the wiring diagram for your specific vehicle to see exactly how the systems are wired and trace each wire until you find the culprit.

i didn't have time to go in depth just checked real quick for obvious broken wires and loose connections, i'm actually an electrical engineering major and my current job involves chasing wires all day long, just helps to have an idea where to start

i didn't have time to go in depth just checked real quick for obvious broken wires and loose connections, i'm actually an electrical engineering major and my current job involves chasing wires all day long, just helps to have an idea where to start

I gotcha. The "usual suspect" is the drivers door connection. The wires inside that black boot are notorious for going bad and 1 bad wire there can kill all the doors/windows. You'll have to disconnect the harness from the door and move the boot out of the way as best as possible. The next spot (since you said all the doors/windows) is that same wire bundle but inside the vehicle behind the kick panel. It makes a weird bend and can sometimes cause breaks. I do assume you checked/replaced the fuse. Might want to test the fuse holder to make sure it's getting the right amount of power. On some models there is a security module that can cause issues with the doors/windows but since you said mirrors go out too it probably isn't your issue.

It is a real PITA to do but once you have all your locks and windows working you'll appreciate the time spent. I had to fix wires on all 4 of my doors when I got my new (to me) 93 ZJ.

When you do it, I'd make the wire a tad bit longer too,just so it has a little extra room to move when you open the door.

Plus one. Soldered commectioms, crimps etc. are not as flexible as wire, so leave an extra length after or before the soldered joint which can flex without breaking.

i think i may have found the location of my problem, not the cause but the location, usually when my switch decides to work, if you hold the button, the window will go down, stop, go down, stop and so on and same thing going back up, well on my way home it went all the way down and back up without stopping, so i tried it again when i got in the driveway, it went all the way and then dead, quit working all together, oh, and its raining......

usually if i screw with it long enough they will begin to work, they didn't, i wiggled the rubber boot between the door, nothing, after a few minutes and lots of aggravation, i began to slam my fist against the passenger side door right on the area of the switches, the lights the lit up and the window worked again, it went up and down several times, no issues

so what i noticed was that the drivers side F&R switches were lit up, the passenger side F&R were not, but then came on after pounding on it, so i have reason to believe the weak link is in the passenger door module, further testing will verify this, also i assume that the drivers door is sending a signal to the passenger door but it is not receiving, further testing will verify this

Any update to this?

I just solved a similar problem using the advise in a post from ZR7 Ken. Here's my reply:

Ken - Your advise was 100% correct. If the following conditions are present:
1. Rt. front and rear power windows do not operate
2. Rt. power mirror does not work
3. Door locks (on my 1996 ZJ driver's still worked) do not work
4. Keyless entry does not work

Then the problem is the passenger door module, which is contained in the power window / door lock switch assembly.

I had power to the tan wire at the switch module harness connector and had ground at the black wire. No wires in the harness were frayed or broken. Got a used module from the junkyard, plugged it in and it's all good.

Except, as you warned, the keyless remote does not work because it has to be "synched" to the new module.

Can this be accomplished by a shade tree mechanic?

Has there been any update to this? My symptoms appear to be exactly the same as 1-4 with one addition, it appears that the instrument gauges flutter considerably when starting.

I've check wiring inside the rubber boot on both driver and passenger front doors, no wires are broken. I've inspected both doors wiring harness too and no issues are visible. I'm thinking my problem is also the passenger door module.

I'm about to investigate this next.

What are the odds of reprogramming the keyless entry if this module is replaced?

I have not had problems with mine since i punched the door panel, i think the harness plug must have had a bad connection

1998 grand cherokee electrical window problems

Hi guys... okay I read everything about electrical window problems, here is mine, my driver side door switches do not work, they went on and off a few times, then stayed off, the mirrors work, and driver side passenger door stopped working but the right side passenger front and back works... all the wires look good... power to the driver side window switches and the little lights all went off... and the rear driver side window only... I looked extensively for a broken wire, nothing... so I need to know were else to look...

power to the driver side window switches and the little lights all went off.....

If lights are out, you simply need to find where the 12vdc supply is disconnected.

Sounds like you lost power/ground to the DDM (Driver Door Module). No separate fuse for only DDM, so likely broken wire(s) in the driver door hinge boot area. Move the wires and pull lightly, see if it is intermittent.

Might also try reseating the connector on the DDM.

1. Either open the door boot and look for broken/damaged wires.

or...

2. Use a meter to probe the pins at the PDM connector while moving the harness. Look for missing +12v/GND or intermittent. You'll still need to open the boot for repairs if it's broken there.

Pin#12 = +12v / TN (tan)
Pin#7 = GND / BK (black)

Kruzin - THANK YOU so much for sharing this fix with us. This week's repairs have all been semi-related and you helped immensely! Solely because of the posts in this forum, so far this week I have: 1] Replaced the clock spring (to fix air bag light and sporadic turn signals but found the clock spring was not the problem), 2] mended broken wire in driver door boot (now door controls work when driver door is open), 3] soldered cracked turn signal module pins (corrected sporadic turn signals), and 4] replaced 2002 airbag control module with a used 2004 ACM per service bulletin suggestion (turned airbag warning light off and restored airbags). It's a fwiggin' shame to have to do all these things to make the vehicle keep working properly; so that's why I am so thankful for this forum. And I have about a grand of coin still in my pocket that would have gone to mechanics.

I've got an issue too in my 04 WJ. The windows, locks stop working every once in a while. I reached in where the harness goes into the drivers side kick panel and wiggled the harness and re-seated the plug ends, and wham everything came back up and was working again. I've had those plug ends come loose a few times now.

4th time repairing the wires, now I am stumped...

I read through this thread.
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo. 95k miles.
I repaired the wires in the boot for the drivers door three times now (over the past 35k miles, give or take).
I repaired the passenger rear door wires once.
Just yesterday, the drivers windows and door locks do not work.
Passenger and rear windows do not go down, at the driver's control or the individual doors.
the only thing that works is front passenger door lock to only unlock the passenger and rear doors. the switch will not lock the passenger door or rear doors or drivers door.
The remote locks passenger and rear and cargo door locks, not drivers door
I checked all the doors wires (except the cargo rear) and the wires are fine. rear passenger's wires were wet.
Driver's wires are also fine, they are together under the shrink wrap/electrical tape.
I bought a new #12 (50) fuse, put it in. Does not change anything.
Do I need a new driver's control switch? I had it replaced years ago, under warranty (only warranty fix I ever had).
any help is greatly appreciated!!!

fixed

thanks for all the tips, found orange wire broke in the rubber boot of passenger door, my interior lights stayed on and both passenger doors windows or locks wouldn't work along with the remote. Got the wire together and all works great. Thanks again to all.