What type of oil for a 2013 toyota camry

Hi guys

I'm new to this forums and this is my first post:smile:

I'm from Orlando, Florida but currently living in Saudi Arabia with my dad who a job here.

The question is: which oil should I service my 2013 Camry with? I mean which type of oil? Considering the hot weather here (it gets up to 122 degrees)

Also the mileage is really low its just 21000 miles.

I've asked people some say 10 W 30 others say 20 W 50 and others say other types as well.

Please could you guys help me in this matter.

Cheers

Hi guys

I'm new to this forums and this is my first post:smile:

I'm from Orlando, Florida but currently living in Saudi Arabia with my dad who a job here.

The question is: which oil should I service my 2013 Camry with? I mean which type of oil? Considering the hot weather here (it gets up to 122 degrees)

Also the mileage is really low its just 21000 miles.

I've asked people some say 10 W 30 others say 20 W 50 and others say other types as well.

Please could you guys help me in this matter.

Cheers

Whatever it says in the manual or on the 710 cap. Engine operating temperature is significantly higher than even an ambient temp of 122.

Probably going to be 0W-20 or 5W-20.

As stated above, the engine operating temp (190-210*F I think) is the same no matter the ambient temp, unless the ambient temp gets over about 210*F. The ambient temp only comes into consideration (in relationship to oil viscosity) for cold engine start up. There are other considerations, racing, towing, engine mods, but you didn't mention any of those. Since you will probably never see ambient temps colder than in the manual I can not see any problem with the manuals' suggestions. Out of curiosity, why would you think the manual would not be correct?

Toyata makes their cars and has no idea where the car will be used or what climate. (this also goes for tires too)

As they leave the factory, some could goto North Dakota where its cold as f&@K and some could goto Florida where its hot as F&@K

So the oil recommended is for an all around climate.

If I were just in hot climate like the sands of an Arabian desert, I would do 10/30 as the heat will thin the oil viscosity.
You may lose a touch of fuel efficiency, but not enough to be concerned about.

20/50 is quite thick and oil pump will be working to push it thru the engine.

Thank you for your replies

I have read the manual but it's not clear, it doesn't say using a specific oil type

Thank you for your replies

I have read the manual but it's not clear, it doesn't say using a specific oil type

I think the manual is quite specific, page 476

^^^

If they are adamant about using 0-20, then I would stick to it..

You dont know how fragile the oil pump is until it breaks.

these engines have tight clearances..0w-20 has better heat dissipation than thicker oils as well as startup wear is better on thinner oils.

I live in houston tx which basically has the same weather. I use 0w-20 mobile 1 advance fuel economy. I havent seen any bad effects from using it. I also use is in my 2014 silverado which calls for the same oil weight. Havent had any issues in the short term either. And i drive in mostly stop and go heavy traffic daily. i think the thickest oil the book recommends is 5-20? no way would i used 20-50 that is way to heavy.

I've asked people some say 10 W 30 others say 20 W 50 and others say other types as well.

In such climate you don't have to worry about the first number. 0-20 is too thin even for normal climate. My 2012 2.5 developed cold start VVT-i noise around 20K miles and as soon as I switched to 0-30 it noticeably quietened the noise. My 2014 2.4 never seen dealer's oil and been running on 0-30 till the day I sold it.
I've researched the VVT-i rattle and looks like it's closely related to very low viscosity of 0-20 which was pushed to the market mostly because of lowered CAFE standards and till recently Toyota dealers in EU, AU and Arab countries were not using 0-20 at all and I've read about Japan built speced for 0-20 Toyotas and Lexuses running on 10-30 with no issues. I wouldn't go as high as 50, but if you can't find 0-30 you an go with 10-30.

Thank you very much guys. Really appreciate your replies.

I would be more concerned that the cooling fan blows hot air across the engine....
I would make sure that the coolant mix be at the most efficient blend of water and coolant.
I've read that LESS than 50-50 coolant is better in hot climates....more like 66%-33% water-coolant....which is why here in Florida I just add distilled water when the reservoir level drops.
Read more here: "Things you should know about coolant"
//hellafunctional.com/?p=629

In such climate you don't have to worry about the first number. 0-20 is too thin even for normal climate. My 2012 2.5 developed cold start VVT-i noise around 20K miles and as soon as I switched to 0-30 it noticeably quietened the noise. My 2014 2.4 never seen dealer's oil and been running on 0-30 till the day I sold it.
I've researched the VVT-i rattle and looks like it's closely related to very low viscosity of 0-20 which was pushed to the market mostly because of lowered CAFE standards and till recently Toyota dealers in EU, AU and Arab countries were not using 0-20 at all and I've read about Japan built speced for 0-20 Toyotas and Lexuses running on 10-30 with no issues. I wouldn't go as high as 50, but if you can't find 0-30 you an go with 10-30.

Very interesting!!

What about oil filter? How often should I change it?

What about oil filter? How often should I change it?

Every time you change the oil.

I would use a synthetic 5w30.... mild step up in viscosity for protection.

Toyota has had so many engine issues over the years that I have no faith in their best MPG 0w20 oil grade recommendation, or their 10k interval.

Sand storms? I'd worry more about the air filter. It will fill up with dust/sand quickly.

I would change the oil/filter every 5k miles since that dust sand environment is definitely severe service. Save the 10k interval for USA.

I would leave the coolant at 50:50... when you dilute the coolant too much, you also dilute the additive package which means you will have a short life coolant.

API/ILSAC SN/GF6 will reduce timing chain and associated hardware(tensioner/VVT/...) wear. After 30 years, the acronym oil gang will finally address a common wear and failure area of the thinner oils. We are still waiting for GF6... maybe in 2020!

I would be more concerned that the cooling fan blows hot air across the engine....
I would make sure that the coolant mix be at the most efficient blend of water and coolant.
I've read that LESS than 50-50 coolant is better in hot climates....more like 66%-33% water-coolant....which is why here in Florida I just add distilled water when the reservoir level drops.
Read more here: "Things you should know about coolant"
//hellafunctional.com/?p=629

You sir would be correct.

Plain distilled water has more cooling properties than coolant. Since my Honda doesnt need coolant, I used RedLine's Water Wetter with all distilled water. It has anti-corrosion additives and works quite well. The price of coolant has gone thru the roof. So for you northern people, stick to the OEM recommended stuff. But down here in 10 months of sweltering heat, Distilled and Redline does the job quite well.

//www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

I would be more concerned that the cooling fan blows hot air across the engine....
I would make sure that the coolant mix be at the most efficient blend of water and coolant.
I've read that LESS than 50-50 coolant is better in hot climates....more like 66%-33% water-coolant....which is why here in Florida I just add distilled water when the reservoir level drops.
Read more here: "Things you should know about coolant"
//hellafunctional.com/?p=629

You sir would be correct.

Plain distilled water has more cooling properties than coolant. Since my Honda doesnt need coolant, I used RedLine's Water Wetter with all distilled water. It has anti-corrosion additives and works quite well. The price of coolant has gone thru the roof. So for you northern people, stick to the OEM recommended stuff. But down here in 10 months of sweltering heat, Distilled and Redline does the job quite well.

//www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

Distilled water is used because it's pure and prevents calcium buid up within a system. All these water wetter snakeoils are just a gimmick.

If your cooling system is fundamentally functional... any proprietors 50/50 pre mix coolant will work flawlessly anywhere on this earth.

In my 2015 Camry 4 cyl with 29,000 miles I've been using Mobil 1 10W-30 April - Oct. and 5W-30 Nov. - March - in a mild central Calif. climate. I'd use 0W-30 if I lived in a cold winter climate.

The Russian owners manuals for this same car and engine allow even 10W-50 oils to be used in summer so that shows the only reason USA owners manuals specify 0W-20 is because the car's EPA gas mileage figures were measured and certified on sample cars equipped with 0W-20 oil.

I change oil every 3,000 miles and the oil filter at 6,000 because some Toyota's built in the last 20 years have had mechanical problems caused by deposits that formed and led to oil circulation problems unless the oil was changed often.