Wiring diagram honda civic ground wire locations

100% found this document useful (1 vote)

1K views6 pages

Wiring Diagram Honda Civic

Original Title:

Wiring diagram honda civic

Jump to Page

You are on page 1of 6

You're Reading a Free Preview
Pages 4 to 5 are not shown in this preview.

Reward Your Curiosity

Everything you want to read.

Anytime. Anywhere. Any device.

No Commitment. Cancel anytime.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GroundZer0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, i already did a search, and this may be a simple question, but can someone please list the ground wire locations on a 99 EX (SOHC VTEC) engine? Also, can they name what type/guage ground wire i am supposed to use for each? My engine is seem'ing to have alot of probs related to crappy ground wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you trying to make some DIY grounding wires? If so here are some grounding points that are recommended by Lineage...

http://www.lineagemotorsport.com/page2.html

acekicker: ok, well here's the easiest way....first things first, take out airbox, makes it way easier

steps
1) go buy urself these items...
-8 gauge wire (any colour u like, u can use 4 gauge if u like, u need about 15ft)
-8 gauge terminal rings
-1 multi-input negative terminal clamp...(or just a normal one with a longer screw so u can fit more connectors on there) http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/batteryclamps.html

2) things you need
-soldering iron
-electrical tape (or heat shrink wrap)

3) find ur oem grounding points, there should be 3 grounding points....1 is from ur negative terminal of ur battery to the chassis, it's really short, less than 9" long....u should be able to spot it easily....there's one that goes from the negative terminal to the transmission, and there's also one from the valve cover to ur radiator support...

4) disconnect the battery, positive first, then negative

5) now take ur 8/4 gauge wire and measure from the firewall to the negative battery terminal, try to actually figure out how much u need inorder to hide the wiring, and give an extra few inch's for slack...put connectors on one end only if u have the multi-input terminal clamp (if you have the regular terminal clamp, but connectors on both ends), and remember to electrical tape it, or put heat shrink wrap around it...(i did heat shrink cause the engine bay is hot, electrical tape might melt, or u can do both...), find a bolt on ur firewall, any bolt, and hook up the wiring, zip tie along othe wiring back to the terminal and just let it hang until u get all the other wires completed

6) take off ur factory ground wire from valve cover (well it's on the thermostat i believe) and the bolt on the radiator support, measure that wire, cut the new wire and replace it...terminal rings of course...put back screws

7) u need one from negative to transmission (same proceedure as step 5, measure length of oem wire or u can use the oem one again if ur lazy)

8) u need one from negative to chassis (same as above)

9) optional: u can put one from throttle body to firewall (same point as step 5)

10) optional: pull a wire from the driver side suspension tower (somewhere over there, find a bracket and bolt the wire there) and u can either pull a wire to ur firewall (which i did) or u can tuck the wiring under the radiator support and connect it to the oem chassis ground point...

that's about it, u should be set, if ur hardcore and have nothing to do, and still have wire left over, pull one from ur firewall or something to ur trunk (going through the firewall is gonna be tough) and pulling it to ur trunk somewhere and bolt it down...usually people do this if they have a sound system...

zip tie all ur wiring...

ok, now finally, u must have a **** load of wires hanging out around ur negative terminal....connect all the wires to the new terminal clamp, connect it to the battery, then connect ur positive, voila, ur done

now tidy up everything